Layering Lace Under Knitwear: The Easy Romantic Trick
The easy romantic trick of wearing lace under a jumper or cardigan, with tips on fit, colour and which pieces to layer.
The prettiest layering outfits for autumn and winter often come down to one small trick: wear something lace under your knitwear and let a little of it show at the collar, cuffs or hem. A black lace top under a fine jumper, or an ivory lace slip under a long cardigan, makes a plain knit feel romantic and considered. It is warm, easy and works from the office to dinner.
Why lace and knitwear work together
The pairing is about contrast. Knitwear is soft, matte and comforting; lace is fine, open and a little formal. Put them together and each one makes the other more interesting.
Both have serious fashion pedigree. The V&A describes how Chanel took jersey, then mostly used for men's underwear and sportswear, and made it a couture fabric, and how a November 1916 issue of Vogue declared her the master of jersey; the same article notes that black lace became a staple of her 1950s and 1960s evening and cocktail dresses (V&A: what makes Chanel so iconic). In the early 1960s, Sonia Rykiel's narrow, high-armhole poor boy jumper made fitted knitwear a fashion piece in its own right, and earned her the nickname the Queen of Knits (FIT: Sonia Rykiel, the Queen of Knits).
On the London runway, Simone Rocha has made layering a signature. Her autumn/winter 2020 collection piled Aran knits over silks and embroidered tulles, opening in white and ivory before moving into black (W Magazine on Simone Rocha's autumn/winter 2020 show). The same instinct, scaled down, works beautifully in everyday clothes.
How to layer clothes so the lace shows
The secret of how to layer clothes successfully is choosing which edge does the talking. Pick one or two places where the lace appears and keep the rest hidden.
At the collar
A lace blouse with a Peter Pan collar or a scalloped edge, worn under a crewneck jumper, gives the sweetest effect. Pull the collar out over the knit and smooth it flat.
At the cuffs
Wear a long-sleeved lace top under a three-quarter or slightly short-sleeved jumper. A centimetre or two of lace at the wrist softens the whole look and frames your hands.
At the hem
A lace slip or camisole that falls a few centimetres below a cropped or boxy knit adds length and lightness. This works especially well over jeans or tailored trousers.
Through the knit
An open-knit or pointelle jumper over a lace camisole lets the pattern show through. Choose contrasting colours (black lace under ivory knit, or the reverse) for the strongest effect.
Lace under jumper: choosing the right pieces
Getting a lace under jumper look right depends on fit and fabric. A few practical rules:
- Keep the lace layer fitted. A slim lace top or bodysuit sits smoothly under a jumper without bunching.
- Match the weight. Fine-gauge knits suit delicate Chantilly-style lace; chunky Aran or cable knits suit heavier guipure or cotton lace.
- Watch the neckline. A crewneck knit over a high-neck lace top looks neat; a V-neck over a lace camisole looks more evening.
- Mind the itch. Lace with a soft lining, or a fine merino or cashmere knit, stops either fabric scratching.
- Colour. Tonal black on black is the most elegant; ivory with black is crisp and graphic; burgundy lace under a grey or black knit adds warmth.
For a deeper guide to lace types and how to wear them, see our article on how to wear lace.
Five layering outfits to try
These layering outfits use pieces many wardrobes already hold:
- Office. Black lace blouse under a fine black crewneck, collar out, with grey wool trousers and loafers.
- Weekend. Ivory lace camisole under a chunky cream cardigan, straight jeans and ankle boots.
- Dinner. Black lace bodysuit under a V-neck cashmere jumper, satin midi skirt and heeled boots.
- Romantic. Lace slip dress worn under a long, belted cardigan with knee-high boots.
- Evening. Black lace top under a cropped knit vest, tailored trousers and pointed heels.
Each knitwear outfit here relies on just two key pieces, which makes them easy to adapt. If you want more ways to wear the top half, our guide to lace top outfits is a good next step.
Layering lace for the colder months
As the weather drops, add a third layer: a tailored coat, a long wool cardigan or a cropped blazer over the knit. Keep the lace visible at one point so the romance is not lost under the coat.
Winter layering outfits also have to work indoors, where trains, offices and restaurants are often warm. Choose an outer layer you can remove easily, and make sure the knit and lace underneath look finished on their own, since that is the outfit people will see most of the evening.
Tights, boots and a scarf finish the look. For a full plan of what to wear after dark when it is cold, our guide to the autumn-winter evening wardrobe builds these layers into a small capsule.
Our Knit & Lace Set and Ivory Layer Set were designed around this exact idea; you can see them both in the first collection.
