How to Wash and Care for Lace Clothing

If you are wondering how to wash lace, the short answer is gently, by hand, in cool water with a mild detergent, then dried flat and reshaped while damp. Always check the care label first, never wring or rub lace, and keep it away from bleach, high heat and long spells on a hanger.

Start with the label

Every lace garment is different. The yarn (silk, cotton, nylon or a blend), the lining and any trims or boning all affect how it should be cleaned. The care label is your first and best guide, and our article on reading care labels and choosing between dry cleaning and hand washing explains the symbols in detail.

A few basics are worth knowing. On the international system of care symbols overseen by GINETEX, a hand in the wash tub means hand wash only, and hand washing at ambient temperature means water of roughly 20 to 30°C. A bar under the tub signals a gentler cycle with reduced agitation; two bars mean a very mild cycle. A crossed-out tub means the piece should not be washed at home at all.

If a garment is labelled dry clean only, respect it. Structured pieces with linings, interfacing or boning can lose their shape in water even when the lace itself would survive.

How to wash lace by hand, step by step

Hand washing is the safest method for most lace care at home. To hand wash lace you need a clean basin, a gentle detergent and about fifteen minutes, plus drying time.

1. Prepare the basin. Fill a clean sink or bowl with cool to lukewarm water. Add a small amount of mild liquid detergent made for delicates or wool. Mix it in before adding the garment.
2. Turn the piece inside out. This protects the right side of the lace and any delicate edges.
3. Submerge and soak. Press the lace gently under the water and leave it for five to ten minutes. Avoid rubbing or scrubbing, which can snag the threads and pull the pattern out of shape.
4. Swish gently. Move the garment through the water with your hands, squeezing softly where it is most soiled, such as at the underarms or neckline.
5. Rinse thoroughly. Drain and refill the basin with clean, cool water. Repeat until no suds remain.
6. Remove water without wringing. Lift the garment out supported in both hands. Lay it on a clean, dry towel, roll the towel up and press to absorb the water.

Can you machine wash lace?

Only if the label says so. If it does, use a mesh laundry bag, a cool delicate or hand-wash programme and a low spin. Fasten hooks and zips first so they cannot catch the lace. Fine silk lace and anything vintage should always be hand washed or professionally cleaned.

Drying lace without distortion

Drying is where most lace is damaged. The V&A's conservators point out that while cotton lace is fairly easy to wash, lace tends to contract and distort as it dries because of the tension in its fibres. Their solution is to pin it to shape, and you can adapt that at home.

• Lay the garment flat on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack, away from direct heat and sunlight.
• While it is still damp, gently ease the seams, scallops and hem back into position with your fingertips.
• Turn it once or twice so it dries evenly.
• Never tumble dry lace, and avoid hanging it while wet, as the weight of the water will stretch it.

Removing creases and stains

Creases

The V&A advises against ironing antique lace, as it is likely to cause damage, and suggests that the steam in a bathroom can relax minor creases. For modern lace, a handheld steamer held a short distance away works well. If you must iron, turn the garment inside out, place a clean cotton cloth over the lace and use the lowest suitable heat, pressing rather than sliding the iron.

Stains

Act quickly and blot rather than rub. Rinse the area from the back with cool water. For oily marks, a little delicate detergent dabbed on with a fingertip often helps. Silk lace should never be bleached; take stubborn marks on silk or vintage pieces to a specialist cleaner.

How to store lace so it lasts

Good storage prevents more damage than any washing technique. Before putting lace away, make sure it is completely clean and dry, as residues and moisture attract insects and cause discolouration.

• Fold with tissue. Fold lace loosely with acid-free tissue in the folds to prevent sharp creases. Refold along different lines occasionally.
• Avoid long spells on a hanger. The V&A notes that leaving a dress on a hanger for long periods strains the seams and shape. Heavier lace dresses are better stored flat.
• Choose breathable covers. Cotton garment bags or boxes made from pH-neutral board allow air to move. Plastic traps moisture and can lead to mould.
• Pick the right spot. Keep lace somewhere cool, dark and dry. Avoid attics and damp cellars.
• Roll long pieces. The National Trust recommends rolling flat textiles rather than folding them, interleaved with acid-free tissue and covered with plain cotton. This works well for lace scarves and long trims.

For a fuller guide to drawers, wardrobes and garment bags, see our article on how to store delicate clothes.

Caring for different types of lace

Not all lace behaves the same way, so how to wash lace also depends on its construction. Fine Chantilly-style lace is the most delicate and needs the most careful drying. Guipure, with its heavier, ground-free structure, holds its shape better but can catch on jewellery and zips. Stretch lace is the most forgiving and usually tolerates a gentle machine cycle. If you are unsure which you have, our guide to the different types of lace will help you identify it.

Lace sits at the heart of every Notte & Noir collection, so we think about how a piece will be cleaned as carefully as how it will be worn. You can read more about how we make our pieces, and if you are still unsure how to wash lace you already own, the care label and a good specialist cleaner are your safest guides.