London Evening Style: How the City Dresses After Dark

London fashion style at night is practical first and romantic second. Many Londoners walk, take the Tube and face changeable weather, so evening outfits are built on dark colours, a proper coat and shoes that can manage a few streets, then finished with something softer: lace, a print, a pearl earring or a flash of deep red.

Here is how the city dresses after dark, and how to borrow the look.

What defines London fashion style

London has always mixed tailoring with a streak of rebellion. The city that produced Savile Row also produced punk, and its evening dress tends to carry a little of both: a sharp jacket over something unexpected, or a romantic dress worn with boots.

London street style is often discussed as daytime dressing, yet it carries straight into the evening. You will see the same habits on a Friday night in Soho as on a weekday morning in Shoreditch: layers, black as a base, one interesting piece, and nothing that cannot cope with a sudden shower.

British style also leans on outerwear more than most. The trench coat is a good example. The V&A's history of the trench coat traces it from Thomas Burberry's gabardine, patented in 1879, through the coats Burberry and Aquascutum supplied to British officers in the First World War, to a 1983 raincoat by Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren.

The designers behind London's romantic evenings

Two designers capture the romantic side of London fashion style especially well, and their work explains a lot about how Londoners dress for evenings.

Erdem

Erdem Moralıoğlu, born in Montreal, launched his label in London in 2005 after studying at the Royal College of Art. The V&A holds his Rumina evening dress from 2008 to 2009, and describes him as best known for full-length, highly feminine evening gowns, vivid prints and detailed craftsmanship. The Business of Fashion profile notes his moody prints and dark florals, and lists British Fashion Council honours including Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2014.

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha studied at the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, then took her MA at Central Saint Martins under Louise Wilson, and showed at London Fashion Week in 2010. Her work, as the Wikipedia entry on Simone Rocha summarises, reworks Elizabethan and Victorian shapes with pearls, lace and handwork. She opened her first standalone shop on Mount Street in Mayfair in 2015.

Both designers show a very London idea: romance with an edge. Florals are dark, lace is worn with heavy shoes, and volume is balanced by sharp tailoring.

What to wear in London at night

If you are planning what to wear in London at night, think in layers and plan for the journey as much as the destination.

1. Start with a dark base. Black is the city's default for good reason: it looks deliberate, hides splashes from the pavement and works in any venue. Our guide on how to wear all black shows how to give it texture.
2. Add one romantic piece. A lace top, a sheer sleeve, a velvet ribbon or a print. Keep the rest simple so it stands out.
3. Choose a coat that finishes the outfit. A long wool coat in winter, a trench in spring and autumn. It is the first thing people see.
4. Wear shoes you can walk in. Block heels, low slingbacks, loafers or polished boots. Tube escalators, cobbles in Covent Garden and long walks between bars punish thin stilettos.
5. Carry a small crossbody bag. Hands free for tickets, phone and an umbrella.
6. Bring a fold-up umbrella. Even on a clear evening.

Dressing for different London evenings

The theatre

West End theatres range from grand Victorian auditoriums to small studio spaces, and most have no dress code. A tailored trouser and lace top, or a simple dress with a jacket, suits almost any of them. Our theatre outfit guide has more ideas for every kind of performance.

Dinner

Restaurants in London range from candlelit dining rooms to buzzy counters, and most are relaxed about dress. Aim for one step smarter than daytime: a knit and pleated skirt, or a slip dress under a blazer. Our dinner outfit ideas give more combinations.

Drinks and parties

Here you can push the romantic side further. Try an open-back top, a lace-slit dress or a corset top under a jacket that comes off once you arrive.

Borrowing the look anywhere

You do not need to live in London to dress like it. The formula behind London fashion style travels well: a dark base, one romantic detail, practical shoes and an excellent coat. Swap the pieces with the season and the occasion, and keep the balance between softness and edge.

Notte & Noir is a London house, and our first collection grew out of exactly this way of dressing: black lace, tailoring and knitwear with ivory and burgundy accents. You can read about our vision and mission, or join the list for launch news.